Chiang Mai, a Northern Thai Jewel

Being a digital nomad in Ching Mai in late December, fragments of winter festivities emerging at every night market, was unexpectedly charming and heartwarming. The Nimman neighborhood is definitely a stellar choice for accommodation, the area being infused with coffee shops, clothes boutiques, modern night markets and crafts spots, its streets so clean and curated, they reminisce of a European city on the cusp of Christmas.

The White Market at One Nimman was incredibly festive and jolly on the Christmas Eve of 2024, with its snow cannon blasting frothy droplets into the atmosphere, people cooking marshmallows over improvised stoves, jazzy carols in the background and the incredible Thai street food sizzling on display at every booth. We made a habit of eating at least once a day at the One Nimman market, one of the countless places in Thailand aggregating food stands, with affordable prices and dedicated places to eat, reminiscing of the Terminal 21 dynamic in Bangkok. There is also the fancy Maya mall not very far away from the One Nimman area, a good spot for shopping and eating delicious food at both its ground and upper levels.

On top of the One Nimman shopping center, at level 5, I found the thing that transformed my stint in Chiang Mai from lovely to spectacular: a fancy dancing space, adorned with boho lights and large windows, planes where whooshing by with the airport being so close, featuring my beloved dancing styles, all in one sweet spot. This is what I call a holy grail in a digital nomads paradise. From tango to latino to lindy hop, I got to dance my heart out in Chiang Mai.

The coffee scene in Nimman did not dissapoint either. The Nimmanhaemin Road, also dubbed the "Coffee Road'' in Chiang Mai, is packed with fancy coffee spots from the Fohhide rooftop, serving brews with a view of the mountains, to the street corner Ristr8to Original offering latte art to the Grapph shop sitting in the heart of One Nimman, with the largest space amongst the three, warm light flooding me while sipping on a creamy Kyoto latte.

Chiang Mai is surrounded by mountains and jungle-covered forests, offering a splendid array of day trips to its many waterfalls, temples and villages.

On a late afternnon, we hopped on a scooter and headed towards the mountainous area, the first stop being the Hmong Doi Pui Village. After sinous roads, many vantage points and a sudden drop in temperature, we reached the tiny colorful village, a very touristy area, resembling more like a bazzar than a village. We made our way up to an incredible flower garden, red and white lanterns adorning its winding steps. We spent a lovely later afternoon here, admiring the waterfalls and lush vegetation, sipping on Thai Pink Milk, very sweet - I actually prefer much better the traditional Thai Chai, also incredibly sweet, but with the distinctive tang of black tea.

The next stop on our way back from the Hmong village was the Wat Phra That temple, a famous one in the area. The temple proved to be a shiny architectural jewel, best visited at twilight, when the monks start their evening chants, the gong beats mesmerizingly and the gold-plated stupas emit a serene light that makes you bow in silence. The whole place looks enchanted, from the holy artifacts, to the Asian adornments, to the colorful trees, the gigantic Buddhas and not to forget the viewpoint revealing a Chiang Mai at dusk, its city lights like tiny Christmas lights.

Interacting with the elephants as a tourist is a controversial deed, but one so often done when in Chiang Mai.

We did our best to choose what they call an ethical elephant shelter and opted for the Maerim Elephant Sanctuary, not too far away from Chiang Mai, portraying a culture of love and respect for the giant creatures. The whole experience consisted of interacting with the elephants, feeding them with bananas and pumpkins and bathing them, for those brave enough to venture into the muddy waters. Being in the presence of the gentle creatures, watching them sniff with their trunks around our food bags and being genuinely curious, made the experience worthwhile, while also raising our awareness to their dwindling numbers and rough treatment in Thailand or Burma.

We ended our incursion in the jungle by cooking a traditional noodle soup, which we garnished with spices and peanuts, while watching the elephants enjoying their own pumpkin-based dinner.

If one is ever in need of a cooking experience in Chiang Mai, look no further than the Zabb E Lee Thai Cooking School. From a most detailed introduction to Thai spices and vegetables delivered in a buzzing Chiang Mai market to the rustic setup of the cooking space to an awesome instructor that walks you though the dishes in a jolly fashion, full of dancing and good vibes, this cooking class has all the elements that make for a lovely afternoon filled with Thai flavors.

Christmas day arrived and our spirits were lifted and eager to spent a holiday with an exotic twist, venturing even further into the surrounding area of Chiang Mai. What better way to start Christmas day than with a visit at Tiger Kingdom, petting the giant creatures in utter amazement of their demeanor, very heavy tail if you ever get to hold one, and incredible fiery skin. I am still ruminating on the whole experience and whether the animals were happy in their fancy enclosure, being the object of admiration and touch for so many tourists.

Adrenaline running high after the tiger encounter, we hopped back on our scooter and continued our journey into the lovely December sun, with the next stop being Buatong, the sticky waterfalls. I had my reservations about this very touristy place, only to be pleasantly surprised by this spot that lets you climb the winding path of a waterfall.

The water gushing over our feet while we were climbing the relatively non-slippery white rocks created a peaceful, refreshing sensation, enhanced by the golden hour and the realization that we were spending Christmas in the midst of a waterfall.

We continued our sunset incursion to yet another waterfall park, Dantewanda Land of Angels. This park can only be described as mystical, incredibly curated, with wonderful flower gardens, caves and boutique shops. A proper way to end Christmas day.

After spending already a couple of full weeks in Asia, in the last days of Chiang Mai, we pumped the visiting breaks and spent languorous days exploring the old city, their night markets and walking streets, and cafes hopping, with our favorite spot being the Gallery Drip, a modern space with a good roast.

The Sunday walking street was incredibly crowded after 7pm, making it difficult to navigate the place and enjoy its abundant display of foods and crafts. Kalare Night Bazaar remained our to go place for eating in the old town, with amazing seafood offering and upbeat pop music.

As for some nighttime entertainment, the Sixcret Cabaret Show cannot be missed, such an incendiary drag show with engaging performances that will leave you wanting more. Our Chiang Mai incursion ended right after New Year’s celebrations, but not before we stepped into the novel year by raising lanterns and, with them, our most arduous wishes.

Raising Lanterns on New Year’s in Chiang Mai old town

The best moments of my travel in Asia remained the unpredicted, unforetold ones, where tiny elements came together to tickle my spirit and form a lasting memory - moments like dusk descending over the rice plantations, wind dancing in my hair while I was passing them on a scooter, all my senses alert.

Or the moment when the sightseeing is done for the day, nightfall approaching and I was getting ready for the journey back, just when there were no expectations left, I hear an upbeat Chinese song accompanied by drum beats from the nearby sticky rice vendor, such a jolly tremor reverberating in the atmosphere, which sealed the day and my mood in the most serene manner.

Or when a lonely scooter passing by at the golden hour made me suddenly aware of all the elements intrinsic to South East Asia: the incredibly tangled street cables, the neon signs just about to be lit up, the serene mood of Chiang Mai old town before nightfall.

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